October 2, 2019
Teaching your dog to walk on lead without pulling.
Full disclosure: this is not my favourite behaviour to train and I would prefer to invest time in recall training so I can walk my dogs off lead. I know, I am very naughty.
This seemingly simple task is actually really complicated, or at least it should be!
WHY?
Is the environment too stimulating for your dog to concentrate? There is an excellent meme going around on Facebook that you wouldn’t teach a man to knit while he’s in a strip club so don’t teach your dog to walk on a loose lead in a busy neighbourhood. Makes sense! #bushwalksinstead
Slow down your leashing up and exit from the house. If your dog is bouncing around, barking, do not put their leash on! This communicates to them that being excited is acceptable (remember that excitement does not equal happiness). Use time and food to slow your dog down and exit the house when they have taken a deep breath and are ready to focus.
Can your dog actually slow down on a walk? Or do you need to speed up? Either way, there is a speed discrepancy. Watch how they move around the house and garden and determine whether their speed is due to excitement/arousal or not. If it is, address the excitement first. How? Call me 🙂
HOW?
I want my dogs to move through the environment as close to naturally as possible. That is, I want their walk to be an extended version of how they travel around the house and garden. I want them to go between walk, amble and trot with maybe some canter thrown in there occasionally. I do not want my dogs to pace for the entire time and I want their heads to be level with their spine or lower for most of the walk. Not sure what I mean about walk, amble, pace and trot? Here is a great video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVvZKcKBTtg
EQUIPMENT!
My go-to harnesses are Haqihana, Vari-Fit and Perfect Fit. The ones you can buy (at a high price mind you) from City Farmers, Better Pets etc are not comfortable for most dogs. I do not use or recommend prong or choke collars, no pull harnesses (front attaching or not) and headcollars as a general rule. This equipment is uncomfortable for dogs and while learning, comfort is extremely important! Imagine trying to learn maths while wearing very tight, restrictive clothing. No thank you!
I also use a 3 metre lead as the shortest length lead. I will use 5-10 metres during my bushwalks. I want to allow as much natural movement as possible! As soon as we restrict movement for dogs their bodies will be effected and I want my dogs to have pain free bodies for as long as possible.
WHAT ABOUT HEELING?
Yes, I teach heel. I want to have a behaviour to call upon when I need my dog close by for short periods of time. I do not expect my dogs to walk at heel for the entire walk and I teach heel off lead at home at first. I do not teach heel on a walk as this is too difficult for the dog at first!
Walking in heel position is not natural or particularly comfortable for dogs so I use this skill sparingly. The dogs or mine who have competed in obedience and agility for many years and done a lot of heeling have all had neck and back pain issues in their later years. There is a price to pay for pretty heeling long term so be mindful of this, especially the heads up heeling that is the current fashion.
MY GOAL FOR LOOSE LEAD WALKING
For my dogs to move through the environment at a comfortable pace whilst exploring and sniffing with or without their friends. I have 2 rules in place for my dogs (or clients dogs) while they are on lead: if they pull, I stop until they put some slack in the lead. Also, if they look at me, I reward them. That’s it. Pretty simple really and dogs experienced with these rules are an absolute joy to walk with but it takes time and dedication.
Here is a link to my Facebook LIVE all about walking on a loose lead: https://www.facebook.com/caninewellnesscoach/videos/2345591052205827/?modal=admin_todo_tour
If you would like some assistance with loose lead walking or heeling training, get in touch at info@georgiadeniet.com or 0411 385 840.