October 21, 2020

Keeping your dog in tip top condition

I would like to draw focus away from dog behaviour just for a sec. Is your dog well physically? Look, we know that mental and physical health are linked so let’s take a closer look at keeping your dog in top physical shape!

Correct weight. This can be a touchy subject for some owners. I understand this BUT did you know that slim dogs will live 2-3 years longer than overweight dogs. I want my dogs around for as long as possible and this motivates me to only feed enough food to maintain their lifestyle, rather than too much.

If you have a dog who eats kibble (biscuits) and struggles with their weight, look at cutting out some kibble and adding fresh ingredients to promote them feeling full. Steamed pumpkin is great for this very job! Veges can help dogs feel full without a huge load of calories.

It is difficult to lose weight when you eat lots of carbs. Believe me, I know! So cut back on the kibble and feed more fresh food. If you are concerned about not giving your dog all the vitamins and minerals they need every day, don’t be, humans don’t eat perfectly every day. We just balance it out over a week, dogs can do that too!

How you feed is also a thinking point. Does your dog eat from a bowl and does the food disappear in 10 seconds? Perhaps try a slow feed bowl or put their meal in a Kong (freeze it in warmer months for extra slow eating).

Perhaps you are currently training your puppy or adolescent dog and use most of their food in training? If your dog is too heavy, cut back on their food portions and opt for focus on protein and fat. Pet dogs are not endurance athletes, they don’t pull sleds all day, so they don’t need huge amounts of carbohydrates from grain (they don’t actually need any at all).

Fitness. Do you walk with your dog every day? Is this even a choice for some owners? Bellatrix, Bert and Bender would be horrified with infrequent walks as they like to sniff, explore, move their bodies and poop out of the back garden.

What sort of exercise are you providing for your dog? Variety is the key to strong, lean bodies. Lead walking is great for dogs who need help to stay with you but consider a long lead and a comfy harness. I would also recommend walking a puppy, adolescent or newly rescued dog in very quiet areas such as bushland. Neighbourhood walks are pretty much the most difficult walks to go on, a dog needs a high level of skill before these kind of walks are pleasant for all involved.

Parks are great for your dog if they are sociable with unknown dogs. Please don’t fall into the time trap of ball throwing day in, day out as your dog will pull up with an injury sooner rather than later (cruciate surgeries are avoidable!).

Bellatrix, at nearly 3 years old, is now able to WALK next to me on a loose lead around any environment. It takes time, dedication and training but it is SOOOO worth it! *See my last blog of how we got to this point https://www.georgiadeniet.com/blog/

Off lead exercise is best so that your dog can move freely BUT your dog must be ready. If you have a dog who reacts to other dogs, hire an enclosed area once a week for safe off lead time. Using a long lead mimics off lead time so invest in a long line for your puppy or newly adopted dog (attached to a harness).

Mobility. The number of dogs I see while out and about who limp, head bob or are favouring a particular limb astounds me. Dogs are built to hide discomfort so when you can see it, action needs to be taken. There are dog Physio’s in Perth as well as Vets who specialize in sports rehabilitation. There are also people like me who have a strong interest in dog fitness and have studied in the field. Make sure that your dog is pain free and moving as well as they can be.

Play. Did you know that play is the opposite of depression? Play with your dog every day, even if it’s only for 30 seconds (Bellatrix scoffed at the idea of a 30 second play session). Find it, tug, chase, hide and seek are all good games and remember to wrap sexy life skills into your play e.g. can your dog lie down and stay while you place a toy a few feet away?

I use play to proof whatever new behaviours that I am working on. Bellatrix has to down stay while I go out of sight and hide her scent item. We have worked up to this of course, she started as a puppy holding a down position while I placed a toy in front of her and she had to wait until I said ‘ok.’ Here is a clip of gorgeous Shera working on this skill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL8NoUHb1AA

Record keeping. Every 6 months, take a side on photo of your dog in a standing position in the same location and at the same time of day. You can compare these photos over time and notice issues early.

I know I said we were focusing on physical health but I have to mention mental health here. Look after your dog’s mental health as you do your own (if you don’t look after your own, perhaps this may be a starting point!). Avoid rehearsal of crappy behaviour from your dog e.g. set them up for success in life. Keep them on lead until they are ready to go off lead, avoid them lunging and barking at every dog/human/car they pass. Nurture relationships within your household if you have multiple dogs (don’t let them be jerks to each other). Do stuff your dog likes to do, even if it means getting up every Sunday really early and going out looking for scent together (lucky I love you Bellatrix). Take them through Maccas drive-thru for an ice cream cone occasionally if their gut can handle it (Bender’s fave activity other than popping bubble wrap). Make sure their day is set up so they are feeling calm and content (Bert has to be walked first every day, yep, EVERY day). Making them feel good makes you feel good which makes them feel good <3

Here is a link to the Facebook Live I did on this topic: https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?v=3279939915416166&ref=watch_permalink

October 2, 2019

Teaching your dog to walk on lead without pulling.

Full disclosure: this is not my favourite behaviour to train and I would prefer to invest time in recall training so I can walk my dogs off lead. I know, I am very naughty.

This seemingly simple task is actually really complicated, or at least it should be!

WHY?

Is the environment too stimulating for your dog to concentrate? There is an excellent meme going around on Facebook that you wouldn’t teach a man to knit while he’s in a strip club so don’t teach your dog to walk on a loose lead in a busy neighbourhood. Makes sense! #bushwalksinstead

Slow down your leashing up and exit from the house. If your dog is bouncing around, barking, do not put their leash on! This communicates to them that being excited is acceptable (remember that excitement does not equal happiness). Use time and food to slow your dog down and exit the house when they have taken a deep breath and are ready to focus.

Can your dog actually slow down on a walk? Or do you need to speed up? Either way, there is a speed discrepancy. Watch how they move around the house and garden and determine whether their speed is due to excitement/arousal or not. If it is, address the excitement first. How? Call me 🙂

HOW?

I want my dogs to move through the environment as close to naturally as possible. That is, I want their walk to be an extended version of how they travel around the house and garden. I want them to go between walk, amble and trot with maybe some canter thrown in there occasionally. I do not want my dogs to pace for the entire time and I want their heads to be level with their spine or lower for most of the walk. Not sure what I mean about walk, amble, pace and trot? Here is a great video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVvZKcKBTtg

EQUIPMENT!

My go-to harnesses are Haqihana, Vari-Fit and Perfect Fit. The ones you can buy (at a high price mind you) from City Farmers, Better Pets etc are not comfortable for most dogs. I do not use or recommend prong or choke collars, no pull harnesses (front attaching or not) and headcollars as a general rule. This equipment is uncomfortable for dogs and while learning, comfort is extremely important! Imagine trying to learn maths while wearing very tight, restrictive clothing. No thank you!

I also use a 3 metre lead as the shortest length lead. I will use 5-10 metres during my bushwalks. I want to allow as much natural movement as possible! As soon as we restrict movement for dogs their bodies will be effected and I want my dogs to have pain free bodies for as long as possible.

WHAT ABOUT HEELING?

Yes, I teach heel. I want to have a behaviour to call upon when I need my dog close by for short periods of time. I do not expect my dogs to walk at heel for the entire walk and I teach heel off lead at home at first. I do not teach heel on a walk as this is too difficult for the dog at first!

Walking in heel position is not natural or particularly comfortable for dogs so I use this skill sparingly. The dogs or mine who have competed in obedience and agility for many years and done a lot of heeling have all had neck and back pain issues in their later years. There is a price to pay for pretty heeling long term so be mindful of this, especially the heads up heeling that is the current fashion.

MY GOAL FOR LOOSE LEAD WALKING

For my dogs to move through the environment at a comfortable pace whilst exploring and sniffing with or without their friends. I have 2 rules in place for my dogs (or clients dogs) while they are on lead: if they pull, I stop until they put some slack in the lead. Also, if they look at me, I reward them. That’s it. Pretty simple really and dogs experienced with these rules are an absolute joy to walk with but it takes time and dedication.

Here is a link to my Facebook LIVE all about walking on a loose lead: https://www.facebook.com/caninewellnesscoach/videos/2345591052205827/?modal=admin_todo_tour

If you would like some assistance with loose lead walking or heeling training, get in touch at info@georgiadeniet.com or 0411 385 840.

August 14, 2019

Self-care and dog training

When I reflect upon the care plans that I have had in place for my dogs over the last 20 years, they have changed as I have learnt more about dogs. They have also changed as I have increased the care plan for myself! There is a direct correlation between my wellness and that of my dogs. Let me explain…

I used to be stuck in a cycle of dieting, binge eating and drinking, smoking and feeling sorry for myself. I had chronic pain in my back, feet, knee and feet and it was getting worse. My dogs were amazing support for me during that time, especially Chanel, as she demonstrated to me that even if you were in pain, just enjoy life and have a nice time anyway! There were days when the dogs were not walked, had no enrichment and were probably quite bored. There were also days that their stress levels matched mine (seen the article about stress levels in people and their dogs https://www.theguardian.com/science/2019/jun/06/dogs-mirror-stress-levels-of-owners-researchers-find). That made me feel worse about myself and so the cycle continued.

When I couldn’t actually walk by midday due to plantar fasciitis pain, I knew that I needed to make some changes. I was doing a lot of Walk and Train at that stage (training other people’s dogs for them) and I stopped walking my own dogs consistently to conserve my feet for client’s dogs. I am ashamed when I look back at that period, but I did my best at the time. My dogs didn’t judge me or get cross with me, that’s why we love dogs so much!

Fast forward to now where I am 45 kilos lighter and walk 15K+ steps a day, train at the gym and do Martial Arts. My dogs get to go for an outing every day, sometimes twice a day. Bellatrix and Bender are doing a body conditioning course called Fit for Life under the guidance of 2 of the best Sports Rehab Vets in the world (https://www.avidog.com/memberships/canine-fitness-training/). Bert will join them when I can figure out how to fit more into my day! I spend time planning my food and the dog’s food and try my best to ensure that both of our nutrition needs are being met. I have regular massage therapy and offer my dogs regular Bowen therapy. We meditate together (don’t laugh). They sleep in my bed if they choose and I arrange regular playdates with their friends (whose caregivers are my friends very conveniently!) I connect with them and they communicate messages to me to help guide my choices and open my mind to new possibilities and ways of thinking and being. I try to teach them skills to make their lives easier, especially husbandry stuff like nail trimming and grooming.

I am continually assessing the needs of my dogs, but you know what comes before that? Assessing my needs. If I can’t get out of bed in the morning, who is going to feed the dogs then take them out for an adventure? Who is going to go to work so that there is money for the household to take care of everyone’s bills? I have to keep my own cup full of goodness. We all have a different way of doing this and mostly self-care is not bubble baths and chocolate. For me it is dragging myself out of bed to drink a disgusting magnesium drink so that I don’t crave sugar or get muscle cramps. It’s lifting weights at the gym so that I can walk my big bitch, Bellatrix, safely and without letting go of her lead when she lunges. It’s going to bed early instead of watching Blacklist until 3am. It is also taking holidays or staycations and perhaps going away for a few days without the dogs! I also include some less than desirable habits into self-care, such as drinking or eating too much and perhaps enjoying some cigarettes. Indulging, on occasion, provides my brain with feedback that I don’t need these habits in my day to day life anymore and I often feel crummy afterwards. This just makes me want to fast for a day or drink more magnesium drink! Sometimes the dogs are included in the junk food eating too. Their faves are Chicken Crimpy Shapes and McDonalds icecream!

You may be thinking why the heck a dog trainer is talking about self-care. Well, your care links directly to the care of your dogs. Even if you can maintain excellent care for your dogs while ignoring your own needs, it won’t last forever (trust me). Looking after yourself also makes your dogs incredibly proud as they love to see us succeed! They thrive when you do. Plus, it makes my job a whole lot easier when your end of the bargain is sorted and your dog can be the only focal point. I love to provide the tips and tweaks needed for behaviour change to a caregiver who has their own routine sorted as it is easier to just focus on tweaking your dog’s rather than both of yours. See, this is part of my self-care 😊

There is going to be a workshop based around this topic in the next few months. I would love to see you there, email me if you are interested in some more information.

June 4, 2019

Big dogs vs small dogs

I love all sizes and shapes of doggo. I admire big guys like Great Danes and would love to have a toy Poodle one day (when I am more aware of where my feet go!). Large breeds of dog have differing needs than smaller breeds of dogs and I think that is important to recognise and respect the needs of both big and small dogs.

There can be a division amongst dog owners, those who prefer big dogs and think that small dogs are evil and those who have small breeds and think that small breeds are evil (only a slight exaggeration).

I wanted to put some ideas out there that will (hopefully) give you another perspective and food for thought. I think that understanding and respect should be at the forefront of our minds when dealing with dogs and their people.

Large breeds: I have a large breed now. Bellatrix the German Shepherd is my first large breed dog and it has really opened my eyes to how large dogs are perceived by the general public. People cross the road when they see us walking towards them, lead their children away quickly and give worried glances in our direction. I completely understand this, Bellatrix looks like a werewolf and is a bit terrifying. Plus, when she is out and about, she looks ready for action (ears up, scanning the environment, noticing everything!). I try not to be offended by this and proactively work towards her being a model citizen so one day she can help with educating the public about breed stereotypes.

Small breeds: Many of you know that I have Beagles and that until last year I had 2 small breed female dogs too (Chanel the Poodle and Minnie the Chihuahua x). On more than one occasion, my small breed dogs have been harassed or frightened by large breed dogs and it would be justified if that pushed me into being fearful of large breed dogs. I remember a particular occasion where Chanel the Poodle was rushed by 3 German Shepherds and she screamed (understandably). The owners of the Shepherds rolled their eyes at me and continued walking. The Shepherds just needed to be better managed in this situation and I have no doubt that they had rehearsed that behaviour before.

So what are the needs of large vs small breeds? I think that they are probably quite similar. Firstly, both large and small breeds need to feel safe. Large breeds get just as scared at incoming dogs as small guys do (Bellatrix gets very worried when approached by another dog while she is on lead). On the same topic, allowing your large breed dog to approach small breed dogs at speed and behave in a manner that may be viewed as intimidating is also something that small dogs would prefer to not happen. I have also seen small dogs approach larger breeds in a very reactive manner, no doubt stemming from fear and being defensive after prior events. In essence, try not to allow your off lead dog to approach a dog who is on lead, regardless of breed or size unless you get the ok from the owner. If you can’t call your dog away from other dogs, they are not ready to be off lead yet, it’s as simple as that. You have more recall training to do.

As an owner of small and large breeds, I am also aware that small breeds often don’t get trained or managed as well as large breeds (generalisation) just because of their size. Small breeds who lunge and bark at other dogs or people while on lead often don’t get the help that they need. Can you imagine the same scenario with a Great Dane? The Dane would be off to training quick smart! I realise that if approached at speed by a German Shepherd it may be more scary than being approached at speed by a Chihuahua. Let’s try to work at bettering our dogs’ behaviour no matter their size and have them be model canine citizens.

Small breeds communicate as much as larger breeds but they are often ignored or have their feelings brushed off as ‘small dog syndrome.’ There are a lot of signals that are given before a dog growls, freezes or snaps and we must be able to read those signals and pay attention to them. I think this is why we often hear about more dog bite incidences by small breeds. This is simply because people often tend to ignore their body language signals. Learning how to read dog body language and being observant of your dog, especially when out in public, is essential for all dog owners.

Large breeds often have to inhibit their feelings as they are punished for communicating feelings of discomfort. Other owners and well-intentioned people will say things like ‘You’ll have to get control of that dog soon or you’ll be in trouble’ if your large breed is barking or showing signs of discomfort. If Bellatrix lunges or barks at another dog, she is communicating her discomfort. It is up to me as her person to move her away or make the other dog move away. Saying ‘No!’ or ‘Ah ah!’ in this scenario will make her inhibit her lunge and bark but it will not change her feelings towards other dogs. I then need to address these feelings about other dogs at a distance where she is comfortable (which is what we are doing).

Can I propose an easy solution to our big vs small dog issues? Let’s all take responsibility for our own dogs and be respectful to others (dogs and human). If your small dog does not like large dogs, don’t exercise them around large breeds. If your large breed doesn’t like small dogs, don’t exercise them near small dogs. There are plenty of quiet places to exercise our dogs in peace, even if it does mean getting up very early to walk the streets in the dark (I rarely see anyone on my morning walks with BT). Manage your dog while you are out and about so that they are not a nuisance to others. Be polite to other owners who are training their dogs and try not to roll your eyes or comment on a dog’s behaviour struggles that you know nothing about. Deal? 🙂

P.S. I did not write this post to have people comment with their stories about how a large or small breed did wrong to them or their dog. Let’s be proactive about managing our own dog’s behaviour and lead by example. No good comes of complaining about large or small breeds.

April 30, 2019

Winter is coming!

Comfort is something that is not often discussed in regard to wellness, especially with dogs. It is a goal of mine for my dogs to be comfortable. When they are comfortable, their behaviour will be as good as it can be.

Winter means a change in the type of dog beds that I use. I will put the flat type of beds away now until summer and bring out the round beds with high sides that the dogs like to snuggle into on cold nights.
Colder temperatures also mean that I change from cool, cotton sheets for their beds to lovely polar fleece blankets for their beds.

I also use a single bed size electric blanket on their beds over winter and leave it on low all day and night. The dogs can then go and warm themselves if need be during the day if they get cold. *Please use your common sense with electric blankets especially with young dogs in the house who like to chew stuff!

Due to the temperature, I now stop giving frozen food. I will thaw bones, berries or barf and try to feed it at room temperature. I have already put on a bone broth with some kangaroo tail and will use this in the dog’s breakfast, along with some oatmeal and protein. Evening meals will be pretty much the same with some steamed veg and protein, as well as their supplements. They will get slightly less food if they are not as active due to the rain, so they don’t gain too much winter weight.

Our exercise routine will also change slightly during winter as the rain may prevent us going out very early. Plus, it’s dark until 7am now so sorry BT, no more 5am walks for a while. The dogs love to lay in front of our gas heater after breakfast to warm up before heading out on a walk.

Much to his disgust, Bender wears a jacket on morning walks as he is 12 now and his back gets cold. Keeping him warm means that he is more flexible and less inclined to injure himself.

I will start rewarding the dogs for going outside to use the toilet if it is raining or if the grass is cold and wet. Why? Because I don’t want this good habit to ever change! I get a lot of calls from clients in winter about dogs whose toilet training has declined (wet grass, rain) so being proactive is important.

Maintaining flexibility and coordination, especially for older dogs is also very important during the colder months. Proprioception training is important all year round and can be done indoors while it is raining outside. I recently completed my Proprioception Instructor’s Course and am now qualified! Get in touch for more info.

Don’t forget grooming and husbandry during winter either. If you have a long-coated breed, please don’t stop taking them to the Groomer. With a longer coat they need to go more often.

November 10, 2018

Where you walk your dog matters

Dog parks seem like a great idea. They are conveniently located in your suburb, you can socialize with other owners and your dog can play with other dogs. But, let’s look into this form of exercise for dogs more closely…..

Lack of stuff to sniff: dog parks with short, green grass that often double as a playing field for cricket or footy are essentially two dimensional. There is not much for your dog to sniff as the only vegetation is short and manicured and there is usually no debris such as fallen branches etc. In essence, there is not much to do except run and interact with other dogs. This causes trouble for a lot of dogs as their scenting abilities are unused and their eyesight is overused (this can lead to reactive behavior).

Lots of unknown dogs: dogs are a social species. I get that. However, as they age into adolescence and adulthood their circle of friends gets smaller (sound familiar?) and many dogs get less tolerant of new dogs. Imagine if you had to start new relationships every day? That would be very stressful and it’s no different for dogs.

Lack of proprioceptive opportunities: proprioception or body awareness is a skill that develops over time. Lack of proprioception is a major cause of injuries in dogs. Dogs need to practice walking, trotting and cantering over different surfaces and textures, up hills and down hills. This is important for dogs of all ages.

Ball chasing: I know everyone is busy. We work 8+ hours away from home and feel guilty that our dogs are home alone all day. But taking them to the park in the morning, evening or both to chase a ball thrown with one of those launchers is a recipe for disaster long term. Do you feel yourself getting defensive just now? I get it, I am a reformed ball chucker and I am glad I made the switch to slower, longer walks in bush land where my dogs are in charge of how far and fast they go. Ball chuckers are a form of convenience for time poor humans. Feeling more defensive? Sorry.

Dogs should sleep for around 18 hours a day. Optimal exercise is 75% heart rate increase for 30 minutes. That’s it. I can already hear some of you asking “How will I tire out my dog?” You will need to make some changes at home if you decide to ditch the ball and stick. You will need to provide more mental stimulation opportunities. You may need to capture calm behavior such as lying on a mat at home. You will have a crossover period where you’ll doubt your decision and your dog will be upset there is no more ball and stick. BUT, you won’t have a 6 year old dog with back problems, ruptured cruciates and arthritic changes in their joints. Your dog will lead a longer and more comfortable life if you exercise them by taking them to natural bush land and allowing them to walk off lead with their friends.

If you decide to ditch the dog park for a while, your dog will thank you for it. Ask the owners of your dog’s best mates to meet up a few times a week to walk in the bush. There are plenty of areas around Perth, you just have to look.
Take it slow: Power walking increases your dog’s arousal. Stroll with them, stop when they do, observe them, meditate, breathe deeply. If you need to keep your dog on lead, use a harness (Haqihana is my recommendation) and a 5-10 metre lead. If they are ahead of you and they stop to sniff, don’t keep walking as often they feel obliged to keep up. Stop where you are, wait for them to finish sniffing, then keep walking.

Take rewards with you: If you are just starting out with your puppy or newly adopted dog, reward them with a tasty morsel when they look at you while out on a walk. Yes, every time to begin with. This is the foundation skill needed for come when called and if you can train 2 things at once, all the better. Scatter a few rewards in long grass or foliage so your dog has to forage to find them. This is a very satisfying game for your dog to participate in. Teach them to stand on or jump over small logs. See how many variations you can introduce: sit on a log, lie down on a log, stand on a log, stand with front 2 paws on a log, stand with 2 back paws on a log etc.

If a person or dog is approaching you, arc around them. Yes, every time, even if it means walking into the bush. It is by far the most polite way to pass for dogs so let’s all do it please. If your dog is not comfortable with unknown dogs approaching, this will help them immensely. If they are reluctant to go off the path, encourage them to follow you then scatter some treats away from the path so the person or dog passing goes by while they are sniffing and searching for food. If everyone did this, we would have a lot less reactive behavior from our dogs.

That’s it really. Pretty simple isn’t it? I think so. These walks are my most cherished moments with my dogs as I can watch them being dogs and see what motivates them without my interference. Yes, we still visit the dog park occasionally but not more than once a week. We visit the dog park at an off peak time and I use it as an opportunity to do some training to ignore other dogs and focus on me. I have to use quite a bit of food and this is how I assess the difficulty level of the environment for my dogs. Ideally I want to walk somewhere with them off lead and not to have to carry food, toys etc.

October 13, 2018

What happens when your dog says ‘Woof!’

This information is applicable for dogs who react (bark, growl, lunge) at the sight of other dogs, strangers, motorbikes, birds or kids on skateboards.

When a dog perceives a threat in the environment, information is sent to the hypothalamus, which controls the release of hormones from the pituitary gland (hormones that stimulate adrenal glands to release cortisol).
Cortisol is called the ‘stress hormone’ and its constant presence is damaging to the body. Some of the symptoms of high levels of cortisol within the body are:

• Muscle weakness.
• Depression, anxiety and irritability.
• Loss of emotional control.
• Cognitive difficulties.

It is imperative that your dog’s health and wellness be addressed before starting any behaviour modification program. As you can see in the information above, chronic stress impairs cognitive function.
Once the hypothalamus has received this information, it sends information to the Amygdala (the warning system), which gives an instant reaction such as; pilo-erection (hackles), staring at perceived threat, lunging, barking, and growling.

The Amygdala’s sends information to the adrenals; adrenaline is released so that the dog is prepared for fight or flight (or freeze). Adrenaline increases blood pressure and blood flow, blood is directed to muscles and organs for optimal speed and strength (running away or fighting), glucose is mobilized from liver for energy, digestion/excretion stop to conserve energy, white blood cell numbers increase so blood coagulates faster (for possible wound repair) and pain threshold increases.
The Amygdala then sends information to the Neocortex, which thinks about further reaction after the immediate response. During this phase there is increased energy production, the dog is completely focused on the threat, the dog stops growth, reproductive processes and fighting infection within the body. The dog also stops learning and feeling to a large degree.
Once the dog has experienced fight/flight/freeze, its blood chemistry can take up to several days to return to normal levels. This often results in a dog who has reacted to another dog or person having another reactive incident later in the same day, or the next day.

Chronic stress leads to the destruction of the brain cells responsible for social behaviour. Managing your dog’s stress levels is paramount to increasing their wellbeing and social skills.

If the dog decides the threat is over, they will settle back into their bed and continue on as normal. This is a normal reaction and may happen several times a day. The human equivalent for this would be an unscheduled visitor knocking at your front door. When you answer the door and see that it is a friend, who has popped in for a coffee, your stress level returns to normal. However, if you answer the door to an axe-wielding maniac, your stress will rise dramatically to prepare for a fight/flight scenario.

Practical solutions to increase calm behaviour in dogs:

As a guardian it is imperative that you are well versed in dog body language. If you can recognize the signs of stress your dog exhibits, you are able to intervene if necessary.

Rest is the most important part of increasing a dog’s overall wellness. Dogs should sleep for up to 18 hours per day. Ensure there are adequate areas to rest in your home that are comfortable and to your dogs liking. Dogs are social creatures so create areas of rest wherever you spend the most time in the house (office, kitchen, lounge room).

Dogs are social sleepers (ever seen a pile of sleeping puppies?). Create a comfortable sleeping area in your bedroom (in your bed is better if possible). It is thought that dogs will not reach REM sleep (where all the restorative magic happens) if they sleep on their own outside or in a laundry. Consider the brain a muscle and growth and repair occurs at rest.

Once you have identified stressful triggers for your dog, avoid them unless you are actively counter conditioning/desensitizing (avoid busy parks, beaches if you are working at lowering your dog’s reactivity to other dogs).
Ensure that your dog is fed a nutritious diet that suits their needs. Ensure that the diet is high in fiber as a lack of fiber increases cortisol. Use food for enrichment and training. Work out how many meals a day is optimal for your dog (my dogs enjoy 2 meals a day).

Use exercise as a chance to teach your dog to be calm in the wider environment. Beware of trying to exercise your dog intensely (ball chasing) as this will result in a fitter dog with high stress levels. Encourage sniffing and snuffling, stroll slowly, and enjoy each other’s company. Use a well-fitted harness (Haqihana) and a long lead to mimic your dog being off lead. Pressure on a dog’s neck from a collar will prompt the body to release adrenaline. Walk in natural environments such as bush land where there are no distractions. If your dog has dog or human friends who aren’t immediate family members, schedule weekly catch ups to help to meet their social needs.

Encourage play and games that work towards your training goals. For example: if you dog enjoys playing tug of war, use the game to create the habit of getting excited and being able to calm down. Start the game, then swap the toy for a reward and ask the dog to lie down on their bed for a few seconds (reward generously). Once you see your dog start to relax, start the tug game again.

Physical or verbal punishment (jerking the lead, saying “no” sternly) will increase dogs stress levels, particularly when in the presence of their triggers (other dogs, men in hats). Using food rewards while exploring the environment together shifts the adrenal balance and temporarily stops adrenaline production. Digesting food causes an increase in serotonin levels, which leads to a calmer, happier dog.

Consider researching a bodywork modality that will suit your dog. Bowen therapy is a gentle modality and is equally valuable for younger dogs and older dogs with existing issues. A bodywork Practitioner will be able to keep track of your dog’s body and make suggestions about their routine to improve their comfort and health.

Take note of changes in behavior in the house such as increased barking at noises outside or taking longer to listen to known cues than usual. Changes on walks may be reluctance to eat rewards, higher respiration rate (panting on a cool day), scanning the horizon for possible threats (inability to connect with you). If you see any of these changes, give your dog a few days off walks to relax, make some changes to their routine and keep note of improvements.

Aim for balance in the dog’s life, lean towards rest/digest rather than fight/flight. If there is a stressful incident for your dog (good or bad stress), give them a few days off and allow them to rest.